The largest fish market in the world

TOKYO - I was determined to see this fish market which I understood is the larget in the world. Told the front desk to wake me up at 4.30am - had to repeat to her several times before she understood it was 4.30am. Got the morning call as expected..to be even "kiasu" - I set the alarm on my hand phone and the bed-side clock too.

At 4.30am, I did not want to wake up but I dragged myself out of bed and took the taxi (about Yen 17,000) from Hotel East 21 to Tsukiji about 20 minutes away by taxi.

Tokyo Central Wholesale Market handled 787,782 tons (2,888 tons a day) of marine products, 748 billion yen (2.8 billion yen a day). Some 450 kinds of fish are received; this figure is unparalleled in the world. Marine products sections are set up in three markets: Tsukiji, Ohta and Adachi. Above all Tsukiji Market, handling 87% of the total amount, is one of the biggest markets in the world.

There are plans by the Japanese Government to relocate Tsukiji fish market to another location about 3km away at Toyosu on Tokyo Bay - probably by 2012 - but are facing strong protest.

The taxi dropped me at the fish market retail end, so I had to walk quite a distance towards the wholesale part of Tsukiji market. I was looking around and it was so quiet, wondering whether I am at Tsukiji fish market. I realize I was very early and the Tuna bidding is still going on.

I reached the end of the Tsukiji market after navigating the dark alleys of this monstrous size fish market and was not disappointed after a long walk. Here I find 2 big rooms which are gathered many bidders and auctioneers. There is a sign warning against unauthorized entry into the TUNA Room. You can hear the loud auction going on with the shouting of the bid prices. I have never seen so many tunas all in one place and the tunas are huge! The auction was held in an air-conditioned environment. They have system of shouting and hand signals, cannot make out what they are doing. The bidding for Tuna was so exciting - middlemen were bidding it higher and higher. After the bid was won, the Tuna was tow away and put on wooded hand carriages pulled by the middlemen back to their store to be cut and sold to retailers and restaurant owners.

For a large fish market - the place looks decently well-kept but you have to be extra careful of the fork-lifts, one-man motorized cargo movers, and numerous small vehicles moving around the market.

Before going back to the hotel, I treat myself to a good sashimi and sushi breakfast - it was really good and fresh - costing about Yen21,000 for the set meal. There are only 39 restaurants that are allowed within Tsukiji market. Many of these restaurants are family business and I understand taht many of these dates back more than 3 generations. That is also one of the reason why these restaurants are so popular.

There are many simple restaurants around Hotel East 21.

• Had lunch at Lotteria - a burger joint - their burgers taste delicious - the set I had for lunch cost Yen570
• Dinner @Yamagoya - a fast food noodle shop - still will cost you Yen1,310 for a bowl of noodles. Below is what I had for my dinner meal.

Mukashi